In 1960, the average American adult bought fewer than 25 items of clothing each year. The average American household spent more than 10% of its income on clothing and shoes. And about 95% of clothes sold in the U.S. were made there, too.

But things began to change in the ‘70s. Massive factories and textile mills opened in China and other countries throughout Asia and Latin America. With the promise of cheap labor and materials, they could mass-produce inexpensive garments quickly. By the ‘80s, a few big American retail stores began outsourcing production.

“Any company making clothing in the United States couldn’t compete,” writes Elizabeth Cline in “Overdressed: The Shockingly High Cost of Fast Fashion.” “They either had to shut down or move on to importing.”

With clothing being so cheap, consumers can buy more. An entire industry surrounding seasonal trends has grown up, replacing a previous focus on quality and durability. Today, the average American purchases about 70 pieces of clothing each year, but spends less than 3.5% of its budget on clothes. Now only about 2% of clothes sold in the U.S. are made in the U.S.

1. Textile Waste

We’re more likely to throw away cheap, trendy clothes than more expensive, timeless pieces. This shouldn't be surprising because when we don't spend much money on something, we tend to value it less. According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), 17 million tons of textile waste were generated in 2018, of which only 2.5 million tons were recycled. Clothing has far lower recycling rates than other materials like paper, glass, or even plastic. This has to do with the short-fiber fabrics that are used; these are cheaper and thinner and cannot be rewoven into new fabrics.

2. CO2 Emissions

Besides the sheer bulk of waste in landfills, fast fashion has an impact on the environment through carbon emissions. The fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global CO2 emissions each year, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. That’s more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Researchers project that if things don’t change, by 2050 the fashion industry will use up a quarter of the world’s carbon budget.

Carbon emissions occur during transportation from factories to retail outlets. Then they occur again by the consumer during purchase, either in person or online. They can occur a final time when the consumer discards the product and it is taken to a landfill and sometimes burned.

The type of material used matters, too. Approximately 63% of all textiles are derived from petrochemicals, which means that significant amounts of CO2 are being released in the extraction and production of those nonrenewable materials.

3. Water Pollution

In addition to CO2 pollution, these clothing items can contribute to marine pollution. Clothes made out of synthetic fabrics can contain microplastics. This includes fabrics made from recycled water bottles, which are often touted as an eco-friendly solution. When these items are washed or if they are sitting in a landfill and are subject to rain, the tiny shreds of plastic are flushed into wastewater systems and eventually make their way out into the ocean.

Studies have shown that plastic fibers can end up in the stomachs of marine animals, including some that wind up as seafood. A study published in Environmental Science and Technology found that more than 1,900 fibers on average can be shed by a synthetic clothing garment during just a single trip through the washing machine.

The aptly named alternative to fast fashion is slow fashion. Coined by eco textiles consultant and author Kate Fletcher, the phrase is about buying ethical, sustainable, quality garments. It requires a mental shift away from chasing trends toward embracing quality, practicality, classic beauty, and ethical production.

“Slow fashion is a glimpse of a different—and more sustainable—future for the textile and clothing sector and an opportunity for business to be done in a way that respects workers, environment, and consumers in equal measure,” Fletcher writes. “Such a future is but a garment away.”

When shopping, try to consider quality over quantity and timelessness over trendiness.